While browsing the web a couple of years ago, I came across
aeromodelling websites. I remembered about the basics that I had learnt in
college (NCC) as a cadet. Thus, started this passion of building small foam
gliders with less expensive materials.
The common 9” diameter FOAM PLATE can be used, which is
available in stores everywhere. It is light in weight, water resistant, easy to
obtain and inexpensive. For this simple
reason I concentrated on designing model airplanes.
Why
is it a Great Activity
It
is a creative activity and a lot can be learned from doing small adjustments
about aerodynamic theory.
- Made of easy-to-find materials and inexpensive.
- Most people are thrilled to build things that can fly.
- Gliders can be flown in small areas and indoors such as hallways, big rooms and as well as outside when there is less wind.
- Safe to build and fly only a few tools are needed.
Lift – Lift for the glider comes from the wing. If the wing has
a slight curve in it, known as “camber”, the lifting force will be greater. If
the curve is more, the wing will generate drag and the glide will not be there.
A flat wing will generate lift, but not as good as a wing with camber.
Stability –Gliders needs stability to fly through the air in a
level manner. Without stability it will drop or dive straight into the ground.
To keep the glider from tilting too much from side to side, the
stability is achieved through “dihedral” angle, where the center of the wing is
flat but it angles upward just towards the ends of the wing.
To achieve stability and flight efficiency, the design must be
dictated mainly by aerodynamics and not by some particular structural pattern. Let us discuss the basic proportions for an efficient
and stable glider by doing and learning.
The most important aspect
in designing a flying model is finding out the CENTER OF GRAVITY or CG. There
are actually two things for a steady glide - stability, and trim. They are
interrelated and depend on the location of the Center Of Gravity, and the angle of the horizontal tail. The center
of gravity is adjusted by adding or removing some weight on the nose. Weight can
be added to the nose by fixing a pencil eraser with a rubber band and by slicing
off some until the CG is achieved. This process of adjusting the CG can be
frustrating and discouraging. Once a person gets it, it can be done speedily.
To learn is TO DO and find it out. We will learn with the initial
phase of calculating the measurements. Please refer to the diagram for
correlation of the terminology.
The starting point is the ‘WING SPAN’ because all
other measurements should be proportionate to it. Span is the distance from one wing tip to other. To keep
construction simple and cost low, the glider should be with a Wing Span (S), of 16 inches. Less than
this will make the flight irregular and adjustment difficult.
The next one is
length of ‘WING CHORD’, the
distance from the front edge to the rear edge of the wing. An average value is
about 1/7 the wing span. Therefore, Wing
Chord (C), is 2-1/4 inches. The relation between the Wing Span and Chord is
called "Aspect Ratio" represented
by:
Span/Average Chord
= S/C = 16/2.25 = 7.1
To determine the location
of the tail planes, the ‘MOMENT ARM’ (M),
must be long enough to provide stability without excessive large tail surfaces.
A length equal to 1/2 the wing span is standard, so
Tail Moment Arm, M = 16/2 = 8", the distance from wing-center to the
center of the Stabilizer.
For complete
longitudinal stability, the Stabilizer
size and proportions must be found out. The tail plane is called the ‘STABLIZER’ (SS). Stabilizer Chord (Cs) is the breadth of the tail
plane, that is, the distance from the front edge to the rear edge
of the tail plane.
Stabilizer span SS = (0.4) x S = 6.4".
Stabilizer Chord Cs = (0.85) x C = 1.9"
The basic rule is
that the stabilizer area of a glider
should be about 30% of the wing area.
Fin proportions are
directed by the wing as it causes directional instability, which the fin
controls.
FIN HEIGHT (FH) is (0.43) x SS, which is FH =
2.75".
FIN CHORD (CF) is the same as the stabilizer chord, CF =
(Cs), which is 1.9".
The NOSE LENGTH (N), is the
distance from the wing-center to the front-tip of the frame stick, body or ‘FUSELAGE’,
and is (0.62) of the Moment Arm,
N = (0.62) M, so N
= 5".
Therefore, the
total frame-stick length or FUSELAGE
LENGTH (FL) is taken as 7/8th of the wingspan (S), which
is 14". 7/8 x 16 = 14".
For lateral
stability and quick recovery, the wings are given a dihedral of 1/12 the wing
span, so dihedral = 1/12 X (16) = 1.33" (as illustrated below).
Frontal view of the glider
Each wing tip has
to be raised 1.33" above a horizontal line passing through the wing chord
at the wing’s lower surface at its center as shown above.
The stabilizer is
set at 0 degrees on gliders, so it must be parallel to the stick centerline,
giving a difference
in angle between wing and stabilizer of 1-1/3 degrees, an
important factor for longitudinal stability.
These calculations
are the result of continuous trial and error methods and by researching the web
to find a stable flying glider without any glitches. An EXCEL WORKSHEET is
attached here where you can give the wing span value of your choice and the
remaining values for other proportions of the glider will be generated
automatically.
to download the worksheet, click on the link below.
Pictures of flying models designed by me
Rubber band powered glider with 16 inches wing span (propeller made out of soft drink can, wings and fin made out of thermocol plates, fuselage made out of bamboo stick)
Rubber band powered glider with 8 inches wing span
HAPPY DESIGNING,
BUILDING AND FLYING.
More ideas,
information and inspiration can be had at these sites.
well explained.. thanks for sharing your thoughts....
ReplyDeleteMany thanks for the valuable information..keep sharing.
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